Brown-butter Rice Krispie treats

Not all marshmallows are made equal.

There's nothing like moving to a new country to make you feel foreign. Currently, I’m trying hard not to say “ciao.” In Germany, it’s a commonplace goodbye, but here it understandably inspires eye rolls. On top of all that, there’s Fahrenheit, pounds and ounces, feet and inches, and writing the date with the month first to get used to. And then there's the grocery aisle.

When I arrived in Berlin from London a decade ago, I looked for my usual baking ingredients but discovered that commonplace items in UK grocery stores were rarities in Germany. Soft brown sugar could only be found at giant wholesalers and a couple of Asian supermarkets. Golden syrup could only be bought online. Marmite and flaky Maldon salt were only reliably stocked on the shelves of the wonderful shop Goldhahn & Sampson, and they were vastly more expensive than I was used to. On one visit back from London, I was pulled aside by airport security. The agent searching my luggage thought the bags of brown sugar in my carry-on might be drug packages.

Rice Krispies aren’t sold in Germany either. You can get Cocoa Krispies if you want (I don't), but if you prefer the basic variety, you’ll be buying them from an importer for a steep premium. Before we left Berlin, I tested this Rice Krispie treats recipe extensively, and when we arrived in the US, the land of excellent cereal, I thought I’d just need to throw one last batch together. But it turns out that not all marshmallows are made equal.

I started with Jet Puffed mini marshmallows, under the assumption that they would melt faster. They do, but they’re also very floury. And the treats were terrible—chalky, dry, hard, inedible. Next came the Whole Foods 365 brand. I chose regular-size marshmallows this time. And though they were better, there was still a lingering floury texture. So I read endless lists of best-to-worst marshmallows and finally decided to try Campfire. But they weren’t in stock anywhere, except for a 10-ounce (283-gram), $10 bag on Amazon. I eventually found a solitary bag of the miniature variety in a local store, but they were many months out of date. In the end, I bought a bag of the regular-size Jet Puffed and wished I’d just gone with them in the first place. The treats had just the right amount of stretch and chew, and though there's still the tiniest hint of flouriness in the background, I can live with it.

A Rice Krispie treat is what it is: sweet, basic, easy. It doesn’t need to be gussied up to be worth eating, but the browned butter and salt do elevate it. Take it slowly when you’re browning the butter. You want a nice caramelization of the milk solids, but the butter can burn easily if you're not careful. I use kosher salt in this recipe. For other salts, halve the amount. And I’d recommend only lightly pressing the mixture into your tin. A little air between the Krispies helps to keep the treats light and chewy.

Brown-butter Rice Krispie treats

Makes 16 squares

• 115 grams unsalted butter

• 300 grams marshmallows

• 190 grams Rice Krispies

• ¾ teaspoon kosher salt (⅜ teaspoon of any other salt, or a heaping ¼ teaspoon)

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Equipment

• 22-centimeter square baking tin

Grease and line the baking tin with baking parchment.

In a large saucepan, melt the butter over a low-medium heat. Stir frequently so the butter melts evenly. The butter will start to bubble up, and as the milk solids start to caramelize, they’ll sink to the bottom. The butter is ready when it smells nutty and is a deep golden brown.

Immediately add the marshmallows to the pan and stir. Continue stirring until the marshmallows have completely melted and the butter is completely mixed in. Add the salt and vanilla and stir to combine. Remove the pan from the heat.

Add the Rice Krispies and stir until completely coated in the marshmallow mixture. Transfer to the prepared baking tin and use a spatula to gently and evenly press the whole lot down. Allow to cool completely before removing from the tin and slicing. The treats will keep really well in an airtight container for at least a week.